Cerrig-Llwyd y Rhestr

The walk up Cerrig-Llwyd y Rhestr from Llanwrtyd Wells isn't exactly a slog, but it's proper proper work. You're climbing steadily through moorland that doesn't ease off, and the path can be boggy depending on when you've chosen to visit. Weather matters here - I've done it in sunshine and it's brilliant, done it in mist and turned back after twenty minutes because there's genuinely no view to speak of.

What makes it worthwhile is the perspective once you're up there. The Cambrian Mountains spread out around you, and on a clear day you can pick out distant peaks. The rocks that give the summit its name - Cerrig-Llwyd y Rhestr translates roughly to the "grey stones of the list" - are scattered across the top, weathered and moody-looking. It's not dramatic in the theatrical sense, but it has a kind of austere Welsh beauty.

This is one for walkers who actually enjoy walking rather than just people ticking off peaks. The nearest proper base is Llanwrtyd Wells itself, a quirky little market town with genuine character. If you're staying at Welsh Glamping four miles south, you're well-positioned for this and the broader walking around the Irfon Valley. Plan two hours for the round trip, longer if you want to potter about on top. Go early in the day when the light's better and you've got the best chance of clear visibility. Free, obviously - it's a mountain.