Carn Goch

The walk up Carn Goch from Llangadog is steep and relentless, but the summit rewards you with views across the Towy Valley that make the huffing and puffing worthwhile. It's a proper mountain - 645 metres of Carmarthenshire moorland with the wind usually in your face and proper old-school hiking underfoot rather than manicured paths.

This is ancient ground. Iron Age hill fort remains sit at the top, earthworks that suggest someone thought this commanding position was worth defending centuries ago. The ruins themselves are subtle - you need to know what you're looking at - but standing there, you understand why they chose it.

Allow a good two hours up and the same back down, depending on fitness. Early morning is best; by afternoon the cloud rolls in thick and you lose everything. The walk works year-round, though winter mud can be vicious and summer brings midges by the billion.

It's a walker's attraction, full stop. Not for casual strollers or restless kids. If you're camped at Cosmos, Barons Court, or Abermarlais nearby, it's a cracking morning outing. Erwain Escapes and Ravenscroft over towards Brecon give you a similar base too.

Free access, naturally - it's moorland. Park considerately near Llangadog and go early. This isn't Instagram-friendly stuff. It's real hills with real effort, and that's rather the point.