Bowes Castle

The moment you round the corner into Bowes, this Norman keep catches you off guard - a proper square tower sitting alone on a grassy mound, looking exactly as formidable as it did when built in 1187. It's not vast, but it commands the landscape in that effortless way old fortifications do.

What you get is a straightforward climb up stone stairs inside the keep - the kind with uneven steps that make you grateful for the rope handholds. The views across Teesdale compensate for the slight breathlessness. You can see right across the valley, which explains perfectly why someone planted a castle here in the first place. The walls are thick enough that you can feel the weight of history without it being heavy-handed about it.

History enthusiasts will spend a solid hour here, reading the interpretive panels and working out the original layout from the remaining stonework. Kids generally get bored after thirty minutes, though they quite like charging up the stairs. It's not a massive day-out destination - this works best combined with exploring Barnard Castle town itself, which sits just down the road.

Entry is handled through English Heritage, so check their website for current admission fees and opening hours before you set off. The campsite nearest to hand is The Old Armoury, barely a third of a mile away, making it genuinely convenient for a caravan stay in the area. Several other sites operate within a few miles if you need more space. Go early or late in the day if you want photographs without crowds.