Truro

Cornwall's unofficial capital still feels refreshingly unglamorous compared to the tourist honeypots further west. Truro's cathedral spire pierces the sky above narrow Georgian streets that curve down towards the River Truro, where pleasure boats bob alongside working vessels. This is a proper Cornish county town - one where locals actually live and work.

The cathedral dominates everything, naturally. Built in the 1880s from local granite, it's the first Anglican cathedral constructed in England since St Paul's. Wander the backstreets afterwards and you'll find independent shops that haven't been Disney-fied for tourists. The Wednesday and Saturday markets bring real life to the cobbles.

Falmouth's just eight miles south, easily reached by the scenic branch line that stops at Penryn and Penmere. The journey alone is worth it - threading through wooded valleys before emerging at one of the world's deepest natural harbours. Falmouth Art Gallery and the town's theatre scene make for proper cultural diversions.

Penryn Museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the area's granite quarrying past, while the Arsenic Works archaeological site tells the darker story of Cornwall's mining heritage. Saint Piran's Church connects you to the county's patron saint.

Truro sits in the heart of Cornwall's river systems, making it brilliant for exploring both coasts. The north shore beaches are a 20-minute drive; the south coast takes even less time. Several holiday parks dot the surrounding countryside, offering a sensible base for day trips without the premium prices of seaside locations. The A30 whisks you west to Penzance or east towards Devon in under an hour.