Lowestoft

Britain's easternmost town catches the sunrise before anywhere else on the mainland. That's about as good as the bragging rights get for Lowestoft, which has been quietly getting on with life as a working port while other Suffolk seaside spots grabbed the headlines. The town's split personality - part fishing harbour, part faded resort - gives it an honest, unpretentious feel that's increasingly rare along the English coast. The harbour's still proper busy with trawlers and supply boats heading to the offshore wind farms, while the sandy beach stretches south towards Pakefield with enough space for a decent walk even in summer. It's not pretty exactly, but there's something refreshing about a seaside town that hasn't tarted itself up for tourists. The old high street's seen better days, though the Triangle Market area has a bit more life to it. What Lowestoft lacks in charm it makes up for with easy access to some cracking countryside. Africa Alive brings a touch of the exotic to the Suffolk coast - it's genuinely well run and the kids love the white rhinos. Kessingland Country Park offers proper wildlife watching in a 600-acre nature reserve that feels miles from anywhere. Further inland, Benacre National Nature Reserve protects some of the county's wildest coastline, complete with reed beds and migrant birds. The area around Benacre Church Gate has lovely walking through ancient woodland at Chancel Covert. Getting here's straightforward enough - it's the end of the A12 from London, though the train takes forever with all the connections through Ipswich. Staying at one of the holiday parks around Kessingland or Pakefield puts you right by the beach and within easy reach of both the wilder bits of coast and Lowestoft's working harbour.