Haverfordwest

Medieval stone walls climb steep streets above the Western Cleddau river, where Haverfordwest has commanded this corner of Pembrokeshire for nearly a thousand years. The county town feels properly Welsh - all narrow lanes and independent shops clustering around the imposing castle ruins that still dominate the skyline.

St Martin's Church and the castle form the historic heart, but it's the surrounding countryside that really steals the show. Within striking distance lies some of Wales' most spectacular coastline, from the golden sweep of Marloes Sands to the puffin colonies on Skomer Island. The Pembrokeshire Coast Path weaves between dramatic headlands and hidden coves.

Musselwick Sands offers a quieter alternative to the busier beaches, while St Ishmael's Church sits in splendid isolation overlooking Dale's sheltered waters. Day trips to Skomer Marine Conservation Zone reward early risers with seals, dolphins, and thousands of seabirds during breeding season.

Getting here is straightforward enough - the A40 runs straight from Carmarthen, though the final approach through rolling farmland takes its time. Train connections via Milford Haven link to the main Cardiff-London line, making it accessible even without a car.

Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks makes perfect sense for exploring this corner of Wales. Little Haven Campsite and Broad Haven Holiday Park put you right on the coast, while inland options like Newton Farm offer countryside tranquillity. The town itself provides all the essentials - proper pubs, decent restaurants, and shops for restocking supplies between coastal adventures.