Bourton-on-the-Water

Two low stone bridges span the River Windrush as it meanders through what locals call the 'Venice of the Cotswolds' - though frankly, that's overselling it a bit. Bourton-on-the-Water draws coachloads precisely because of those postcard bridges and honey-coloured limestone cottages reflected in the shallow water. It's properly touristy, but there's good reason for the fuss.

The town centre gets heaving at weekends, so midweek visits are infinitely more pleasant. St Mary's Church anchors one end of the village green, while the real action happens along the river where families paddle and children feed the ducks. Bourton Lake offers quieter moments away from the main drag.

Beyond the obvious photo opportunities, the surrounding countryside reveals the Cotswolds at their most unspoiled. Slaughter Woods and the various copses - Searcham, Lower Wood, Oak Covert - provide lovely rambles through ancient woodland. History buffs will find the area rich with archaeological remnants: Salmonsbury's Iron-Age oppidum and Neolithic causewayed enclosure speak to thousands of years of settlement.

Blenheim Palace lies about twenty minutes northeast, making this a cracking base for day trips to Churchill's birthplace. The A40 puts you within striking distance of Oxford in half an hour.

Staying at one of the holiday parks scattered around the area - Cotswolds Meadow Glamping gets particularly good reviews - means you can explore the village early morning or late evening when the tour groups have departed. That's when Bourton shows its true character: a working Cotswold community that happens to be extraordinarily beautiful, rather than just a heritage theme park.