Ambleside

Steep wooded fells tumble down to the shores of Windermere here, creating one of those magical pockets where water meets mountain. This Victorian town grew up around the tourist trade and still thrives on it, though thankfully without the worst excesses of nearby Windermere town. The result feels properly Lake District - slate buildings, outdoor shops, and walkers everywhere clutching Ordnance Survey maps.

Stock Ghyll Force Waterfall provides a cracking introduction to what's on offer. Just a short walk from the centre, this 70-foot cascade crashes down through ancient woodland - dramatic after rain, gentle trickle in drought. More ambitious souls head for Wansfell Pike, the fell that looms above town. It's a proper climb but the views across the central fells are worth every step.

Culture vultures shouldn't miss Zefferelli's By The Park, a proper independent cinema that shows everything from arthouse films to the latest blockbusters. The attached restaurant does decent pizza too. For something completely different, the climbing wall offers indoor thrills when the weather turns.

Getting here from Manchester or Preston means the A591 through Kendal - about two hours of increasingly lovely countryside. Windermere station lies eight miles south, with regular buses connecting the two. The surrounding area begs exploration: Grizedale Forest stretches away to the west with its sculpture trail, while the Langdale valleys offer some of England's most dramatic mountain scenery.

Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks makes perfect sense. You're close enough for evening strolls around town but far enough out to appreciate the landscape. Lakeside Retreat Glamping gets rave reviews, while the various Parkdean sites offer family-friendly facilities. Either way, you'll wake up to views that postcards can't capture.