Aberystwyth

The seafront promenade stretches for over a mile, lined with Victorian terraces that have seen better days but still hold their dignity against the Atlantic winds. This is proper seaside Wales - not polished like Brighton, but honest and enduring. The university town pulses with student energy during term time, then settles into a quieter rhythm come summer when families take over the beaches.

Aberystwyth's charm lies in its contrasts. Constitution Hill rises dramatically above the town, accessible by the cliff railway that's been chugging up and down since 1896. From the summit, the view takes in Cardigan Bay and on clear days, you can spot the peaks of Snowdonia. The castle ruins perch at the southern end of the seafront - not much left of them, but they frame the bay nicely.

Venture inland and the landscape changes completely. Esgair-Hir offers proper hill walking just a few miles from the coast, while Penderi Cliffs provide dramatic coastal scenery for those who prefer their nature a bit wilder than the town beach. The surrounding Ceredigion countryside rolls away in all directions - proper Welsh farming country with stone walls and sheep-dotted fields.

Getting here is straightforward enough. The A487 runs right through town, connecting north to Machynlleth and south to Cardigan. There's a railway station too, though services can be patchy.

Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks makes perfect sense for exploring this stretch of coast. You get the best of both worlds - easy access to Aberystwyth's shops, pubs and seafront, plus quick escapes to the quieter beaches and hills that dot the coastline north and south of town.