Tir-mawr Wood

Walking into Tir-mawr Wood feels like stepping off the map entirely. This forest near Llandeilo sprawls across proper ancient woodland - the kind where you half expect to bump into something out of a fairy tale, though you're more likely to encounter red squirrels and the occasional bemused hiker.

The woodland itself is thick with character. Paths wind through dense trees, past streams that babble earnestly even in dry months, and clearings where light filters through the canopy in that particular shade of green you only get in Welsh forests. It's the sort of place where an hour disappears without you noticing, which is either its greatest strength or its main weakness depending on your tolerance for "just one more path".

This works brilliantly for walkers after something less manicured than a proper country estate. Children who enjoy a bit of scrambling through undergrowth and hunting for wildlife will get genuine mileage out of it. History enthusiasts might find the ancient woodland itself interesting enough, though it won't scratch the itch for castles or scheduled monuments.

If you're camping at Cosmos Camping or staying at Erwain Escapes' glamping setup - both excellent bases, honestly - Tir-mawr Wood makes for a solid half-day expedition. Free to access, no car park fees or admission charges that we can find. Allow two to three hours if you're actually exploring rather than simply walking through. Go early to avoid whatever crowds gather on weekends, though "crowds" in a Welsh forest rarely means more than a handful of people.