St Kilda's Church

The walk to St Kilda's Church on the Isle of Mull is half the appeal. You're heading out to one of those proper remote corners where you genuinely wonder if you've taken a wrong turn, then suddenly there it is - a small, ancient stone church surrounded by moorland that stretches to the horizon.

It's a working church, which gives it real character. The building itself dates back centuries, though exactly how far depends on which local you ask. Inside it's simple and austere - whitewashed walls, wooden pews, a genuine sense of place rather than a polished tourist attraction. On a clear day the light through the windows is lovely. On a grey one, which is more likely, there's something rather atmospheric about it.

This isn't a stop for thirty minutes. It's for people who actually want to walk the moors, who'll appreciate being somewhere genuinely off the beaten track, who don't need a gift shop or a cafe. History types will find it interesting; families with restless kids might find it a bit quiet. Allow a couple of hours if you're combining it with a proper walk around the area.

It works well alongside Port nan Gael Campsite just down the road - the kind of spot where you can pitch your tent and spend a day exploring the quieter parts of Mull. Free admission, no facilities to speak of. Bring good boots and weather you can rely on, because the Hebridean elements don't hold back.