Porthor

Two miles west of Pwllheli, Porthor is where you'll find the kind of beach that makes you understand why people bother with North Wales in the first place. The sand here shifts constantly - locals call it Whistling Sands because when you walk across it, the grains actually squeak underfoot. It's genuinely odd the first time you hear it, less magical the fiftieth, but worth experiencing once.

The beach itself is long and relatively quiet even in summer, backed by low dunes that don't demand much effort to climb. Rock pools dot the upper shore when the tide's out, which keeps younger kids occupied for a solid hour or two. The water's cold - it's the Irish Sea - but swimmers do venture in during the warmer months. What you won't find here is a promenade lined with ice cream vans and amusement arcades. That's either brilliant or disappointing depending on what you're after.

Walkers and photographers get the most from Porthor. The light here changes dramatically through the day, and at dusk the whole bay takes on a moody quality that's genuinely worth the drive. Allow an afternoon minimum; half a day if the beach alone is your plan.

It's well placed for a camping holiday in the area. Glampio Coed and Tyn Ddol are both within three miles, so you can reach the beach in five minutes from either site. Treheli Farm, slightly further out, gives you the same easy access without being right on top of it. The beach is free and accessible year-round, though winter winds can be ferocious.