Porth Ferin

The sand at Porth Ferin has a soft, almost powdery quality that's rare along this stretch of the Lleyn Peninsula. It's a small beach - properly small - tucked away near Pwllheli without the crowds that pile into the bigger resorts. You get decent shelter from the dunes at the back, which matters when the wind picks up off Cardigan Bay, and there's a working beach car park that actually has spaces most days.

What you're really after here is a proper Welsh beach experience without the fanfare. The rock formations at either end give swimmers and waders plenty to explore, and the water stays reasonably clear. Families with young kids do well on this one - shallow gradient, no major currents to worry about, and the cafe situation in nearby Pwllheli is solid enough for a post-swim lunch. Walkers passing through find it's an easy addition to coastal paths rather than a full day's commitment.

Timing matters. Summer weekends draw the usual suspects, but weekdays in June or September are genuinely peaceful. The beach itself is free, parking is nominal. You'll want a couple of hours minimum if you've got children, less if you're just after a brisk swim and a walk.

Stay at either Glampio Coed or Tyn Ddol - both within easy reach - and you can slip down here without the fuss of a bigger resort. Not Instagram material, but that's rather the point. Real seaside, no pretence.