Esgair Gors

The walk up Esgair Gors demands respect - it's moorland navigation rather than a straightforward hill bash. Starting from near Llanwrtyd Wells, you're heading for one of those peaks that doesn't look massive on the map but reveals its character once you're on it. The terrain is proper boggy in places, especially after rain, so decent boots aren't optional here.

What makes this worthwhile is the solitude. You won't find crowds at the summit, which sits at just under 2,500 feet. On a clear day the views stretch across mid-Wales moorland - wide, undulating, slightly austere. It's not dramatic peaks and valleys; instead it's open sky and ancient-feeling landscape. The sort of place where you actually notice the wind direction.

Allow three to four hours for a round trip depending on your pace and route choice. This isn't a walk for small children or anyone uncomfortable on featureless terrain - navigation can be tricky in mist, and there are no obvious landmarks to steer by once you're up there. For experienced walkers wanting to escape the busier Welsh peaks, though, it's excellent.

The Llanwrtyd Wells area sits bang in the middle of Mid Wales hill country, making this a natural fit if you're staying nearby. Welsh Glamping, just four and a half miles away, offers a comfortable base - proper glamping, not roughing it - for accessing walks like this across the region. It's the kind of peak that rewards being unhurried about it.