Esgair Gelli

The walk up Esgair Gelli isn't long, but it's steep enough that you'll feel you've earned the view once you crest the top. From Llanwrtyd Wells, you're looking at a solid leg-stretcher rather than an all-day affair - the kind of walk where you're glad of your boots but won't need a packed lunch and a map.

What strikes you immediately is how exposed the peak feels. There's proper moorland around you, rolling Powys hills dropping away in every direction, and on a clear day you can see for miles. It's not dramatic in the Alpine sense, but there's something satisfying about the rawness of it. The summit itself is modest - no cairn drama or tourist infrastructure - just you and the landscape.

This is walker territory. If you're staying at one of the nearby parks like Welsh Glamping, it's an excellent half-morning option before heading back for coffee. Families with young legs will manage it fine in decent weather, though the exposed top can be windy. Not the sort of place to linger for hours - you come for the walk and the payoff, not the destination itself.

Bring proper waterproofs. The Powys weather changes fast up here, and there's nowhere to shelter. Worth doing, though - it's honest hill walking without the pretension.