Esgair Ddu

The walk up Esgair Ddu isn't exactly a famous trek, which is precisely why it's worth doing. This modest peak sits in that proper wild stretch of mid-Wales between Llanbrynmair and the deeper moorlands, and on a clear day the views across Powys just keep unfolding - ridge after ridge of empty hills rolling away to the horizon. The ascent is straightforward enough, nothing technical, but steep in patches. You're looking at a couple of hours up and down, depending on fitness and how often you stop to catch your breath.

What makes it work is the solitude. Unlike the honeypot peaks everyone else is tramping up, you'll likely have the summit to yourself or share it with maybe one other walker. The ground underfoot switches between tussock grass and thin paths - wear proper boots, the bog can be ankle-deep in places after rain. Visibility is everything here; on a grey day it's just brown moorland rolling past, but when the weather cooperates, the views justify the effort.

Families with older kids who don't mind a proper walk will get plenty from it. Younger children might find it dull - there's no café, no facilities, just a bare hill. But if you're staying at Cringoed Caravan Park nearby, it's a genuinely good morning out, and you won't queue or jostle. Go early in summer or autumn when the light stays decent and the worst midges have cleared.