Allt Pistyll-celyn

The Towy Valley near Carmarthen holds some proper dense woodland, and Allt Pistyll-celyn is where you'll find yourself surrounded by old-growth forest and the kind of quiet that makes you remember why you came to Wales in the first place. It's a walking destination first and foremost - bring decent boots because the ground gets boggy, especially after rain, and the paths aren't manicured tarmac affairs. You're looking at a solid couple of hours minimum if you want to explore properly, though you can do a shorter loop if the weather turns or the kids start complaining.

This is prime territory for walkers who actually want forest, not just a pleasant stroll. History buffs might appreciate the old slate workings dotted about - remnants of the area's industrial past - but don't come expecting signage or visitor facilities. There's something refreshing about that, mind you. The forest itself is the draw: ancient oaks, ferns, moss-covered rocks, streams. Proper Welsh woodland.

Free to access, no car park to speak of - you'll find a small lay-by or park verge near the trail entrance. Spring and early summer are best, when the ground's drier and the canopy's fully green. Winter walks work too if you've got the stamina. Towy Valley Caravan Park sits just a mile away, making this an ideal morning expedition before heading back for lunch. It's the sort of place you'll want to spend time in rather than tick off a list.