Newquay

Surf crashes against golden sand beaches where seagulls squawk over dropped pasties. Newquay feels like the wild west of Cornwall - equal parts surf town swagger and family holiday chaos. The Atlantic Ocean dominates everything here, from the rhythm of daily life to the conversations in every café.

Fistral Beach is where serious surfers gather at dawn, boards under arms and wetsuits half-zipped. It's got proper waves that draw competitors from across Europe. But don't be fooled into thinking this is just for pros - the beach schools here are brilliant for beginners too. Great Western Beach sits closer to town, more sheltered and better for families who want less drama with their sandcastles.

The headland walks offer cracking views across the bay. On clear days you can see right down the coast towards St Ives. Spring and summer bring crowds that transform the town centre into a proper holiday buzz, but venture out in October and you'll have miles of clifftop paths largely to yourself.

Trains from London take about five hours, changing at Par usually. The A30 gets you here by car, though expect slow going through the summer months - especially on Saturdays when the changeover traffic is mental.

Staying at one of the holiday parks dotted around Newquay makes perfect sense. Sunhaven Holiday Park gets consistently good reviews and keeps you close enough to walk into town for evening fish and chips, but far enough out to escape the late-night party noise that can echo through the town centre. The parks also give you a base for exploring the rest of the Cornish coast - St Ives is an hour's drive, and the Eden Project is surprisingly close.