Llanon

The tide retreats across miles of firm sand here, leaving behind a beach that stretches endlessly towards the Cambrian Mountains. Llanon sits quietly on Cardigan Bay's eastern shore, the kind of place where sheep outnumber tourists and the closest thing to a traffic jam involves tractors. This is proper Welsh coast - raw, unspoilt, and refreshingly free from the kiss-me-quick nonsense you'll find elsewhere.

Cardigan Bay spreads out in front of you like a vast amphitheatre. On clear days, the views reach across to Bardsey Island. The beach here is a dog walker's paradise - miles of space where your hound can charge about without bothering a soul. Swimming's possible if you're hardy enough, though the water rarely gets what you'd call warm.

Llanon Cottage Museum tells the story of this quiet corner of Ceredigion, housed in what was once a typical Welsh cottage. It's small but fascinating - the sort of place that reveals how tough rural life was a century ago. St. Ffraid's Church and Llansantffraed Parish Church speak to the area's deep religious roots, while Yr Eglwys adds to the collection of ancient stone buildings that dot this landscape.

Getting here means driving - the nearest railway station is Aberystwyth, about 20 minutes south. But that isolation is precisely the point. From Woodlands Holiday Park or Aeron Coast Caravan Park, you're perfectly placed to explore the quieter stretches of the Welsh coast without the crowds that plague more famous spots. This is Wales as it should be experienced - unhurried, unspoilt, and utterly authentic.