Cirencester

Roman walls still shadow the streets where emperors once walked, making this the unofficial capital of the Cotswolds feel properly ancient. Cirencester earned its 'Rome of the West' nickname honestly - as Corinium, it was second only to London in Roman Britain, and you can still trace sections of the old amphitheatre if you know where to look.

The market square buzzes twice weekly, but it's the side streets that reveal the town's character best. Narrow lanes wind past honey-coloured limestone buildings, many hiding Georgian facades behind medieval bones. The church of St John Baptist dominates the skyline, its perpendicular tower visible for miles across the Cotswold countryside.

Venture beyond the town centre and you'll find proper countryside within minutes. The Lake offers peaceful walking, while Ten Rides provides cracking views across the rolling hills. History buffs should seek out the Thames Source - yes, that Thames - just a short drive away near Kemble. The Coates Portal marks where Sapperton Tunnel begins its journey through the hillside, a remarkable feat of 18th-century engineering.

Kemble station connects directly to London Paddington in under 90 minutes, making this a surprisingly accessible base. The surrounding villages of Sapperton and Coates are worth exploring too, particularly for walkers tackling the Cotswold Way.

Staying at one of the nearby parks like Hoburne Cotswold Holiday Park puts you right in the heart of walking country, with footpaths leading directly into Cirencester Park's 3,000 acres. It's an ideal spot for families wanting to explore both the town's Roman heritage and the wider Cotswolds without the crowds that descend on Chipping Campden or Bourton-on-the-Water.