Anstruther

Fish and chips don't come much better than this. Anstruther's harbour front practically hums with the smell of fresh haddock and proper mushy peas, while fishing boats bob alongside pleasure craft in what feels like Scotland's most authentic seaside town.

The Scottish Fisheries Museum tells the proper story of this East Neuk village, housed in buildings that have watched centuries of nets hauled ashore. But it's the working harbour that gives Anstruther its soul - this isn't some tarted-up tourist trap but a place where folk still earn their living from the sea.

Wander east along the coastal path and you'll stumble upon Caiplie Caves, carved into the sandstone cliffs by centuries of waves. They're a bit of a scramble to reach, but well worth it for the views back across the Firth of Forth. The Tide Line Cellardyke marks where the village merges with its smaller neighbour, creating one long sweep of stone cottages facing the water.

St Andrews lies just eight miles up the coast - close enough for a day trip to see the Old Course, far enough away to escape the crowds. The surrounding Fife countryside rolls gently inland, dotted with golf courses and farming communities that feel properly rural despite being within spitting distance of Edinburgh.

Getting here is straightforward enough - the A917 coastal route brings you right into the heart of things, while Leuchars station (about 20 minutes away) connects to the main Edinburgh-Aberdeen railway line. Several holiday parks dot the area around St Monans and Elie, making this stretch of coast an excellent base for exploring both the fishing villages of the East Neuk and the historic university town that put Scottish golf on the map.