Aboyne

Royal Deeside feels different once you reach Aboyne. Gone are the tourist coaches of Balmoral country - this is proper Highland gateway territory, where the Cairngorms begin their serious business of towering peaks and ancient forests.

The town sits snug against the River Dee, with Victorian granite buildings that speak of its days as a railway terminus. These days it's refreshingly unpretentious. The weekly Highland Games in August draw crowds to witness caber tossing and hammer throwing, but most of the year Aboyne keeps to its own gentle rhythm.

Walking is what brings most people here. Mortlich offers cracking views without the Munro-bagging crowds, while the Wood of Glen Ferrick provides easier forest rambles. History buffs will find plenty to poke around - the Image Wood Stone Circle predates anything Roman, and Coull Castle Ruins tell tales of medieval power struggles.

Fancy something more challenging? The surrounding peaks - Craigendinnie, Birsemore Hill, Court Hill - provide proper hill walking with panoramic Deeside views as your reward. Queen's Hill is a personal favourite for sunset watching.

Getting here is straightforward enough. Aberdeen lies 30 miles east via the A93, though the single carriageway means allowing extra time. Banchory, eight miles downstream, has better shopping if you need supplies.

Staying at one of the nearby parks makes perfect sense. Aboyne Loch Caravan Park puts you right by the water, while Ballater Caravan Park offers easy access to the upper Dee valley. Both serve as excellent bases for exploring the Cairngorms National Park without the higher accommodation prices of Ballater or Braemar.