Saint Brynach's Church

The walk to Saint Brynach's Church is half the appeal. You'll find yourself on narrow lanes heading inland from Newport, with hedgerows pressing in and barely another soul about. Then the church itself appears - a modest medieval structure that's been standing since the 6th century, though what you see now is largely 12th and 13th century stonework.

Inside, it's properly atmospheric. The nave is simple, the light falls through small windows in that particular way old churches manage, and there's a real sense of age without feeling museum-like. The graveyard around it is overgrown in the nicest possible way, with ancient stones tilted at odd angles. You won't spend hours here - thirty minutes is realistic - but the quietness is the point. This isn't a tourist tick-box; it's a place locals and walkers have known about for centuries.

Historically minded types will get the most from it, particularly those interested in early Welsh Christianity. Families with young kids might find it a bit static unless they're into exploring graveyards. The real draw is combining it with a walk in the surrounding Pembrokeshire countryside - the coastal path is nearby and the hills roll away nicely. It's free to visit, naturally, and there's no formal opening hours as far as anyone can tell.

If you're staying at Trewrach Glamping or Llwyngwair Manor, you're well-positioned for this. Neither is far, and it makes an excellent half-morning detour before heading to the coast.