Ruthin Historic Market Town

The High Street in Ruthin curves uphill in a way that makes you realise immediately this is proper old Wales. Red sandstone buildings crowd either side, some dating back to the 1600s, and it's the kind of market town that hasn't tried to reinvent itself as a gastropub destination - it's just quietly carried on being itself.

You'll spend a good two hours wandering here without rushing. The castle ruins sit above the town centre, commanding views across the Vale of Clwyd, and there's a decent church if medieval stonework appeals. The Saturday market (when it runs) brings farmers and locals rather than tourist tat, which means you're not paying over the odds for coffee. The town square has real character without the self-consciousness of the places that know they're pretty.

Walkers get the most from Ruthin because it's gateway territory - you're on the edge of the Clwydian Range, and the surrounding footpaths are genuinely excellent. The town itself works as a pit stop rather than an all-day destination, though if you're into independent shops and old architecture, you could stretch it to three hours. History buffs will find enough to keep them occupied, but don't expect museum crowds.

If you're camping or glamping at Clwydian Glamping Pods just down the road, Ruthin's the obvious evening wander. Grab fish and chips, walk the High Street, and head back before dark. It's the sort of place that rewards showing up without a plan.