John Dinham

The earthworks at John Dinham are what you're after if you want to see medieval military engineering without the crowds of bigger castles. Near Exeter, this is a proper motte-and-bailey fortress - think a steep artificial hill crowned with what was once a wooden keep, surrounded by a ditch that's still visible. You're walking around genuine 11th-century defensive works, though there's not much to see in terms of standing stonework. That's either brilliant or disappointing depending on what you've come expecting.

Historyophiles will find it worthwhile - the site tells you something real about how castles actually worked before everything got built in fancy stone. Families with primary-school kids might get twenty minutes of climbing and exploring out of it before boredom sets in. There's no visitor centre or tearoom, so bring water and realistic expectations.

Access is straightforward and appears to be free, though facilities are genuinely minimal. Best visited on a walk rather than as a standalone trip - it's the kind of place you'd tick off while exploring Exeter itself. If you're staying at Devon Heaven Hideaways, the glamping spot just a few miles out, you could easily factor this into a morning wander before retreating to your hot tub. Go in cooler months when you won't melt climbing the mound, and don't expect much interpretation on site. Bring a history book or your phone if you want context.