Graig Lâs

The walk up Graig Lâs from Blaenau Ffestiniog is a proper lung-burner, but you get what you're after - decent views across Gwynedd without the tourist crowds that swarm Snowdon. The peak itself isn't dramatic. What matters is the vantage point, which opens up as you climb past the old slate workings that litter the landscape around here. On a clear day you can pick out the neighbouring heights and the valley floor falling away below. Allow a couple of hours return if you're reasonably fit; it's steep in places and the path can be boggy, so proper boots aren't optional.

This works best for walkers who want actual effort without needing a guide or permit. Families might find it a slog - the payoff isn't instant enough for kids who get restless. History buffs will get more from it if they read up on the slate industry first, as the ruins you pass tell a quieter story. Early morning is your best bet to avoid any mist creeping in, which happens often up here.

Stay at Llechwedd Glamping if you want comfort after the walk - it's only 1.6 miles away and sits high enough to feel properly rural. Llyn Gwynant Campsite is a bit further out at 6.1 miles but worth it if you're doing multiple peaks in the area. Either base lets you explore the surrounding fells without driving all over Gwynedd each morning.