Frenni Fawr

Frenni Fawr rises 1,598 feet above the rolling farmland around Whitland, and it's proper worth the hike. The walk up takes about an hour from the road, threading through bracken and rough grass until you break onto the summit. The views from the top stretch across Ceredigion to the coast on a clear day - you can see Cardigan Bay glinting in the distance, and inland the landscape rolls away in folds of green and purple moorland.

It's not a dramatic peak. You won't find scrambles or exposed ridges here. What you get instead is a working mountain that feels genuinely wild, with barely another soul around. Walkers love it because the paths are straightforward and the reward is genuine. History buffs get their fix too - there's an old hillfort up there, though it's subtle enough that you need to know where to look.

Allow three hours for the round trip if you're not pushing. Go midweek if you can - weekends bring families from Cardigan, and the car parks fill up. Autumn and spring are best; summer moorland can be thick with heather, and winter gets boggy fast.

If you're staying at Cardigan Camping and Touring Caravan Site, Frenni Fawr makes an excellent half-day escape without the long drive inland. Park up near Whitland and get your legs working. No fees, no gates, just a genuine bit of Welsh mountain on your own terms.