Coetgae Fawr

The ancient woodlands of Coetgae Fawr sprawl across the Powys hills like something from a fairy tale, though there's nothing twee about it. This is proper old-growth forest - dense, atmospheric, and the kind of place where you genuinely lose track of time. The trees are massive, gnarled things that have stood for centuries, and walking through them feels like stepping into a different era altogether.

There are decent trails threading through, ranging from gentle ambles to proper woodland hikes depending on which way you head. The forest floor is thick with moss and bracken, and in spring and early summer the whole place comes alive with birdsong and wildflowers. It's the sort of spot walkers absolutely love - you get that sense of wilderness without needing specialist kit, and the paths are well-trodden enough that you won't get properly lost.

Builth Wells is your nearest town for supplies and a decent meal afterwards, which is handy. If you're staying at Irfon River Caravan & Camping Park just down the road, you've got brilliant access without the drive. The forest itself is free to wander, which is a bonus.

Who'll love it? Walkers, photographers keen on moody woodland shots, and anyone after a bit of solitude. It's not a destination for restless toddlers or those wanting manicured trails with information boards. Allow two to four hours depending on how much ground you want to cover. Visit in autumn if you can - the light filtering through the canopy is genuinely stunning.