Allt Cystanog

The walk through Allt Cystanog is properly wild - ancient woodland that feels like it hasn't changed much in centuries. You're hiking through dense broadleaf forest near Carmarthen, with the stream running alongside for much of it, and the canopy gets thick enough that even on bright days it's all green shadows and moss-covered rocks.

It's a walker's forest rather than a family stroll spot. The terrain can be boggy and uneven, especially after rain, so proper boots matter. Allow a couple of hours if you're taking it slowly and want to actually look at things rather than just march through. The stream itself is the main feature - you're basically following it uphill through increasingly wild country. There's something genuinely atmospheric about it, the sort of place where you half expect to see something that shouldn't be there.

Historically it's part of the Towy Valley landscape, which for centuries was proper frontier country between Welsh kingdoms. Now it's just a decent forest walk that rewards the effort.

If you're based at one of the nearby campsites - Quarry Lodge is closest at just 2 miles, though Towy Valley Caravan Park at 5.5 miles puts you right in the valley itself - this makes a good morning or afternoon outing. It's free access as far as I can tell, no visitor centre or facilities. Wear something waterproof. The forest doesn't care if you're prepared or not.