Whitebank Hill

The walk up Whitebank Hill from Kirkby Stephen takes you through proper fell country. It's not a massive summit - around 430 metres - but the climb itself is the whole point here. You're in the Pennines, that long spine of England that doesn't get nearly as much attention as the Lake District despite being equally serious about its hills.

The path isn't complicated, but it demands respect. The approach from town is straightforward enough, but the gradient is relentless in stretches. Allow a good two hours for a round trip if you're not rushed, longer if you're stopping to look about. The views from the top open up across the Eden Valley and eastward into Yorkshire - on a clear day you're looking at proper distance.

Walkers will rate this higher than most tourists. It's the kind of walk that rewards your legs rather than coddles them, which means families with young children might find it tough going, though older kids who like a genuine climb will get something out of it. History buffs won't find much interpretive material up there - it's just you, the wind, and the view.

The nearest proper base is Kirkby Stephen itself, a working market town rather than a honey-pot. If you're after something more leisurely in the evenings, Gillcumber Glamping Pods sits just down the way and offers that balance between comfort and countryside. The hill works best as a half-day mission - leave your afternoon free for exploring the town's geology museum or the surrounding limestone country.