Smeltmill Waterfalls

The falls themselves are modest - a series of cascades rather than one dramatic plunge - but the walk to reach them from Kirkby Stephen is what makes this worth your time. You're following a proper moorland stream through steep-sided valley, the kind of landscape that reminds you why people come to Cumbria in the first place.

It's about two miles on foot from the village, mostly uphill on the approach, which means you'll feel like you've earned it when you arrive. The water drops in stages over dark rock, tumbling into pools that look inviting if you're brave enough for a dip. The whole area has an isolated feel - not many people seem to make the journey, which is either a bonus or a warning depending on your mood.

Walkers will get the most from this. It's not a casual stroll and it's not a major waterfall spectacle, so families with young children might find it frustratingly unglamorous. That said, older kids who enjoy proper walks without crowds will love the adventure of it.

There's no visitor centre or facilities to speak of - you're going for the landscape, not the infrastructure. Allow a couple of hours for the round trip including time to poke about the falls themselves.

If you're based at Gillcumber Glamping Pods nearby, this makes a solid morning activity before heading into Kirkby Stephen for lunch. It's the sort of thing that fills the gap between bigger attractions rather than being a destination in itself, but that's not really a criticism in this part of the world.