Sgwd y Pannwr

The waterfall thunders down a rockface you can actually walk behind - which is the whole point of visiting Sgwd y Pannwr. It's one of four major falls in quick succession along the Afan Taff river valley, and this one's the star turn. The water's dark and muscular, dropping maybe thirty feet into a pool that reflects the cliff overhang above. You stand on slick rocks with spray hitting your face and realise why locals call it the Waterfall of the Fuller.

It's roughly a mile's walk from the car park near Neath, heading upstream through woodland that's properly atmospheric even on a grey day. The path's well-trodden but muddy - bring boots with grip. Allow two hours if you're taking it seriously, poking about all four falls in sequence. Kids aged seven or up will manage fine; younger ones might struggle with the rocky sections.

Free to visit, obviously. Go early morning or weekday if you hate crowds. The river's volume depends entirely on rainfall, so a wet spell beforehand makes this genuinely special. In dry spells it's more of a trickle.

If you're glamping at Four Falls Glamping just down the road, this is an obvious morning excursion before breakfast. It pairs well with walks around Pen y Cymoedd or exploring the Afan Forest trails. It's not a multi-hour attraction - more a brilliant waypoint in a bigger day out in the Mid Wales hills.