Cowan Crags

The walk up to Cowan Crags from Kirkby Stephen takes you through proper fell country, and the effort pays off when you reach the ridge. You get a sweeping view across the Eden Valley that stretches for miles - Pen-y-ghent looms in the distance, and on clear days the vista is genuinely arresting.

It's not a quick stroll. The approach is steep enough in places to have you catching your breath, and the path can be boggy after rain. Budget a good two hours for the round trip if you're taking it steady. Strong walkers will manage it faster, but there's no point rushing - the whole point is that view.

This is pure Pennine walking territory, so it suits anyone who actually enjoys a bit of graft for their scenery. Families with older kids will find it manageable; younger ones might struggle with the climb. Photographers should aim for late afternoon when the light catches the valley properly.

The crags themselves aren't dramatic peaks - it's the viewpoint quality that matters here. On a misty day you'll see nothing much, so weather really matters. If you're staying at Gillcumber Glamping Pods, it's close enough for a half-day expedition, and a decent way to work off breakfast before settling in for the evening.

There's no facilities up there, so bring water. Free to visit, obviously - it's just fell and view.